How To Service Oil Filled Trailer Hubs

I recently inverse the oil in the cool hubs on my Ranger Trail trailer. While doing so I put together instructions and a photo assortment of the procedure of a gunkhole trailer cool hub maintenance oil change. Changing the oil in cool hubs tin can exist an intimidating task for someone non comfy with performing vehicle type maintenance. Hopefully these instructions and photos provide the confidence for anglers to perform their own absurd hub maintenance and fluid change and relieve a few dollars to buy lures.

This instruction set will deal specifically with draining and refilling cool hubs. I will embrace hub removal with bearing inspection, and brake pad inspection and replacement in future instruction sets.

I have to add together a quick disclaimer; there are a few deviations from manufacturing plant recommended procedures in my repair processes. These deviations will be indicated with a note. I accept been a professional person mechanic in one form or another since I was seventeen, culminating in 28 years of turning wrenches. Along the way, I accept developed sure ways of doing things that have served me and my customers well. If in that location are any doubts almost my substitutions, please follow the manufactory recommended portion.

Boat Trailer Cool Hub Maintenance Oil Alter

My trailer is a 1998 Ranger Trail Model D4600 – Tandem Axle with Disc Brakes.

Tools and materials needed to drain and refill cool hubs.

3/16 Allen wrench
Floor jack
Jack stands
One 32oz bottle of gear oil
One tube RTV sealant (I adopt a gray like GM or Subaru brand)
Drain pan for waste matter oil
2-3 cans BraKleen solvent (optional)
Tire removal tools

To start, jack the beam until the tire is articulate of the basis. Earlier removing lug nuts, grasp the tiptop and bottom of the tire at the 12 and half dozen o'clock positions. Simultaneously pull and push button, trying to rock the tire, checking for lateral movement in relation to the spindle assembly. Motion indicates looseness in bearing tension. None was evident in mine. However, co-ordinate to Ranger and UFP (Unique Functional Products) if in that location is more than 1/8″ of motion measured at the outside edge of the tire, the bearings need to be adapted.

Annotation: I will go one footstep further and say if there is 1/eight″ or more of motion it'south a expert idea to remove and inspect the bearings and races for habiliment versus simply adjusting them.

Spin the wheel past hand and mind for any grinding or growling noise. This would indicate a bearing or race result. Mine had no noticeable noises. Remove the tire center cap and lugnuts and set the tire aside.

Place a jack stand (1) under the axle for safety.

Rotate the hub assembly until the small Allen-head plug (ii) is visible.

Place the plug at the 12 o'clock (direct upward) position, and employ a 3/xvi Allen-head socket to remove the plug (iii)

The Oil level (four) should be visible at the bottom of the threaded hole.

Place a small, clean drain pan directly under the hub and rotate the hub until the hole is at the 6 o'clock position. It is important to start with a make clean pan so the oil tin be inspected for particles. Let the oil drain into the drain pan (5).

While the oil is draining, look at the oil collecting in the pan with a bright flashlight. Audit for excessive small metal particles which could be testify of premature vesture of the bearings.

Note: It's difficult for me to draw "excessive" particles, all the same if in that location are any doubts remove the hubs and inspect everything.

The oil will have a while to completely bleed. If there is time, let it drain overnight.

Note: This is where I deviate and add my own procedure into this procedure. I rotate the drain hole back to the top and use CRC BraKleen (half-dozen) to flush the hub and bearings.

With the red spray tube attached begin filling the hub (7).

I filled my hubs 3/4 full with the solvent (8) and temporarily installed the plug.

Spin the hub around by hand for 30 seconds to flush the bearings. Pull the drain plug and rotate the hole back to the bottom letting the solvent and oil residue drain out. Perform this process iii times on each hub or until everything running out is articulate. I used 3 cans of BraKleen full between my four hubs.

The BraKleen solvent volition completely evaporate in about ane to two minutes. After evaporation is complete, it's time to fill the hubs with the gear oil. In my case the factory recommends l weight oil or 90 weight gear oil.

Note: I decided to go with synthetic gear oil in my hubs. This is personal preference, using Ranger recommendations is completely acceptable. Before trailer maintenance is performed, be sure to await up the recommendations for the specific trailer year model.

Rotate the drain pigsty back to the top. Cut just the tip off of the provided nipple on the gear oil canteen. (9)

Stick the tip in the hole, leaving room for air to escape (10).

Very slowly fill the hub with new oil. Lookout the window to come across when the hub becomes full (11).

Refilling requires patience. Trying to force the oil into the hub chop-chop won't happen because it is a sealed system. Clean the bleed plug threads and coat them with RTV silicone (12).

When oil level is correct, install the prepared drain plug. Right oil level on my 1998 year model is 3/8″ beneath the make full hole. Tightened the plug to 7ft-lb (13).

Rotate the hub by paw four to five consummate turns to fully breast-stroke the bearings in oil and to work any air bubbling to the top of the hub. Recheck the level in the hub window; if all you see is oil, hub maintenance is consummate.

Each hub took 5-6oz of oil; but go along an eye on the oil level window while filling.

Don't forget about the hubs; periodically look behind the tire at the back of the hub seal surface for evidence of leaking. Some "seepage" over time is normal. Only if it is wet, dripping or slinging oil to the inside of the tire, the seal needs replaced. I volition cover seal replacement in another article (lookout for information technology very shortly).

Hopefully these instruction and photos will help yous tackle this regular maintenance procedure on your ain. Remember my trailer is a 1998 model, different years require different lubricants and/or levels. Be sure to identify the correct specifications in the possessor'southward transmission. If yous have further questions or clarification on a specific year model please call Rick Huddleston, Ranger Boats Trailer Department, at 870-453-2222.

Delight visit my blog called The Ultimate Bass Garage for many other money saving maintenance procedures

Banjo Pickin Bass Hunter!
Rick Olson

How To Service Oil Filled Trailer Hubs,

Source: https://ultimatebass.com/fishing/bass-fishing-blogs/ub-garage/boat-trailer-cool-hub-maintenance-oil-change/

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